After a wild jeep ride we arrived back in Kathmandu late in the evening. We learned that our friend Singhi Lama, who owns the travel agency doing our permitting, was getting married the following day. Now that we were back Kathmandu he invited us to attend their wedding!
We got straight to work. Tom received a high class prune job from an exceptional Nepali artist. The experience was extravagant with creams, toner, aftershave and a little face slapping. A solid half hour of man pampering turned trail Tom into a presentable and slightly less hairy man.
Knowing there are dress code rules for women in Nepal we searched online to find out what Sarah was supposed to wear to a Nepali wedding. The consensus: a red sari. Although saris are more traditionally a Hindu dress we read they are sometimes also worn by Buddhists so it seemed safe. With only a couple of hours before we had to leave for the wedding we hit the streets in hot pursuit.
We found a store filled with colorful fabric adorned with mirrors and sequins. Two kind men were up to the task and helped piece together a red sari. They brought us tea as they sewed a new button on the shirt. Then one of the men wrapped Sarah in the long sari and pinned it in place. We hustled back to the hotel while Sarah struggled to walk in the new contraption.
When we walked into the wedding we were all blessed with a khada. As we looked around for a table we realized Sarah was the only one in a sari. And yes, there was an obvious dress code for the ladies that we missed. Turns out this was a Tibetan Buddhist wedding which has a very different style of attire. Both are common in Nepal. After a good laugh and many stares in our direction we got ready to celebrate.
The wedding had nearly 600 guests. The venue was split in two by a fenced-in pool. The groom’s guests on one side, the bride’s on the other. We tried new foods that were impressively spicy and took sips of traditional butter tea. Beer and wine was being served every 5 minutes. Knowing it was a long wedding and ceremony we had to pace ourselves.
After several hours performing the bride’s families’ ceremonies Singhi and Diki made their way over to our side. Shaman’s and monks were performing the traditional ceremonies of Singhi’s home village. Incense, mantras, songs, cymbals and bells filled the air as they made their way into the building.
The dinner was segregated similar to the wedding parties: a line for men and a line for women. We lined up and had a plethora of delicious food options to scoop from.
The night ended with a bout of monsoon. Pouring rain and winds blowing away the tents pushed everyone inside. As the power flickered on and off a circle of song and dance ensued. Guys in a row followed by a row of women began doing a special shuffle and step. The song went back and forth like a call and reply between the 2 groups. Tom was roped in by a couple of rather intoxicated younger guys whom he met earlier in the night. Meanwhile, Sarah had attracted the attention of many sweet young girls that were full of questions. After 7 hours of wedding celebrations we finally called it a night and caught a taxi home.
Our friend, Tsering, set up a time for us to meet his guru Serkong Dorjee Chang Rinpoche. Tanner joined as we walked to Swayambhunath, a Buddhist temple complex that sits atop a large hill in the middle of the city. The Rinpoche’s monastery and school are located on the grounds of the temple. Rinpoche, previously Tenzin Ngawang Tsültrim Dönden, shared that at just 3 years old, he knew he was the third reincarnation of Rinpoche. In 1985 he was recognized by H.H. the 14th Dalai Lama.
The Rinpoche has travelled the world and he developed an affection for espresso after visiting Italy. He was eager to make us espresso and had us each pick out a shot glass from his travels. The three of us sat on the floor of the prayer room like little kids drinking guava juice boxes and eating Lotte Choco Pies that Rinpoche had shared with us. Then we sipped espresso and talked about life and he taught us about history while discussing Buddhism. After snacks he gave us the grand tour of his Monestry.
We were conscientious not to consume too much of Rinpoche’s time so after an hour of visiting we started our goodbyes and began making our way to the Monkey Temple. Enjoying one another’s company and conversation the Rinpoche joined us and gave us a tour of Swayambhu Temple. We greatly appreciated his easy going presence and willingness to answer all of our questions. He enjoyed taking lots of photos and introducing us to his friends long the way.
At the very top of the hill is the large Swayambhu stupa which represents the womb of creation. Serkong Rinpoche showed us one of his favorite ways to give our Khada blessings to the gods by wrapping a small rock up in the scarf and chucking it up high onto the stupa.
The following day we had a date to meet our friend Sangita and her family for their Saturday momo tradition. We caught a taxi and headed to their house in Lalitpur. Their house was a tall 3 story building. On the top floor resided the family room and kitchen. The walls inside were colorfully painted in shades of lavender, avocado, cantaloupe, and bubble gum. Their parents were out of town still from the elections but the house was full of siblings and spouses. The majority of households in Nepal are multigenerational, sometimes with grandparents all the way down to the grandkids living under the same roof. Sangita lived with 3 of her siblings, their spouses and her parents. She has one sister who lives in Austin, TX and another sister that lives with her husband 30 minutes away in Kathmandu.
As they artfully wrapped the momos we watched cricket and played with their nephew who was just over 2 years old. We enjoyed learning about Nepali sports from her brother-in-law who is a sports writer.
We were treated like royalty. Nepali hospitality sets the bar high. Sangita’s sister-in-law has spectacular cooking skills and made a mouthwatering momo sauce that was next level. We probably ate 15 momo’s each because they so kindly kept refilling our plates.
After a late lunch we were encouraged to stay for dinner and the night. It was a relaxing day sharing stories about the differences and similarities of life. Saturdays are the only day off and it was fun to see how they enjoy their days off. We walked up to their roof top terrace to see the city and enjoy the sunset. We had a wonderful evening talking and enjoying the special experience of being invited into a Nepali home.
During dinner we learned one of the most important skills of the trip. We learned to eat with our right hand. Sangita’s brother showed an essential move with our thumb to help slide the food into our mouths. We made a vow to only eat Dal Bhat with our hands from that moment forward. Our Nepali assimilation had begun.
After dinner we were invited to stay the night so we did. “You stay” said the younger sister. We sang and played guitar then finished the evening watching videos of hikes in Nepal. We stayed in a nice spare room on the top floor and woke up to rain and gentle thunder with a cool breeze visiting us through the window screen. It was peaceful and comfortable.
After more incredible hospitality and some breakfast we said our goodbyes and headed back to the hotel to make our group meeting. Group dynamics were changing as 2 teammates were heading home early. So the last 3 of us made plans to explore the far west and enjoy another month out in the bush.
Later that day we went to the immigration office and were able to extend our travel visas. It was a pretty easy process. Just a little bit of time and a little bit of cash and we were done.
On our last evening before making our way out to the trail we went to Indian food at Third Eye. The following day we would be back at Kathmandu’s airport and flying to Pokhara. Then a small flight the following day to Jomsom where we would catch a jeep to Muktinath. Our plan is to hike west from Muktinath to Ra Ra Lake.
On Tour with Tom and Sarah 