Kathmandu > Muktinath

The first part of our Nepal experience was in the far east and now we were off to explore the far west. We were back at the far too familiar Kathmandu airport and made our way through security without any hiccups or snafus this time.

We had just one night in Pokhara and would have happily stayed longer if our itinerary allowed. The town of Pokhara is a frequent vacation getaway with views of Phewa lake and the Annapurna range. Being the gateway to the Annapurna circuit, which is one of the most popular treks in the Himalaya, it has a lot of nice restaurants, shopping, and tourist activities. Many locals utilize it as a quick getaway to escape the big city of Kathmandu. It is also a popular location for extreme sports such as bungee jumping and rafting.

The doongas are used to visit sites across the lake such as lodges and the World Peace Pagoda. There is an island in the middle of the lake, comprised of the Bahari Temple, which is often visited by devotees of the Hindu Goddess Durga.

We had an early start leaving Pokhara in order to catch our flight to Jomsom. The prominent Annapurna range came into view as the clouds cleared. We enjoyed cappuccinos on the rooftop of the airport and watched parasail tours take off one after another.

We chose to catch the earliest flight because clouds and wind often delay and shut down flights later in the day. The flight to Jomsom was on a small Twin Otter plane that held 19 passengers, 2 pilots and 1 flight attendant. It was a little claustrophobic as we squeezed into the first row right behind the cockpit. The 25 minute flight was beautiful as we watched the mountains grow around us.

Later on the trail we learned the tragic news that 22 people lost their lives flying on the same exact plane and flight path. According to reports the plane was in the clouds which obscured visibility of the narrow mountain route. After talking with Gombu, we learned that plane crashes are more common in Nepal due to challenging routes and the use of older planes. We all decided that we would catch a jeep back instead of fly once reaching Gamgadhi.

We stopped at a bakery in Jomsom that tempted us in with its appetizing smells billowing out to the street. We happily polished off warm chocolate croissants fresh from the oven.

Mike, Gombu, and the two of us got into a jeep and proceeded to Muktinath. Muktinath is located in the Mustang district at the base of Thorong La mountain pass. The arid mountains and hoodoos were a stark contrast from the lush greenery of the east. We were excited to get back on the GHT route and start hiking!

The Muktinath temple is one of the 8 sacred Hindu sites also known as Svayam Vyakta Ksetras. It is one of the earliest holy places of worship for Lord Vishnu. We walked up the many steps joined by pilgrims who had traveled far and spent nearly all their money just to visit this temple. The temple has an auspicious 108 golden, bull shaped, water spouts. The water is used for ablutions to purify one of sins.

Muktinath is a shared holy site for Hindus and Buddhists. Buddhists visit this site to worship the grounds where Guru Rinpoche, the second Buddha, had stopped to pray during his travel from India to Tibet. There is still a site where his footsteps had been found after he danced with the Dakinis who are known as the manifestation of energy in the form of dancing goddesses. Next to the Hindu temple is the largest stone Buddha statue in Nepal and an ancient monastery. Beyond that is a giant statue of Lord Vishnu.

After a night at the reggae themed Hotel Bob Marley, the four of us packed up and got ready to make our way to Kagbeni. A short 5 hour hike down was in order to warm up our legs after 10 days in Kathmandu. We were giddy to be back on the trail at last!